{"id":44856,"date":"2022-02-02T08:00:58","date_gmt":"2022-02-02T08:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/?p=44856"},"modified":"2022-02-02T08:00:58","modified_gmt":"2022-02-02T08:00:58","slug":"dining-in-idriss-mediterranean-in-ottawas-east-end-introduces-palates-to-the-tastes-of-algeria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/en\/dining-in-idriss-mediterranean-in-ottawas-east-end-introduces-palates-to-the-tastes-of-algeria\/","title":{"rendered":"Dining In: Idriss Mediterranean in Ottawa’s east end introduces palates to the tastes of Algeria"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

“Opened a few months before the pandemic began, Idriss is Ottawa’s only Algerian restaurant, and so it immediately piqued my curiosity.”<\/p>\n

\n
\n
Author of the article:<\/div>\n

Peter Hum<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n

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Idriss Mediterranean<\/strong>
\n319 St-Laurent Blvd., 613-421-4008,\u00a0idrissmediterranean.com<\/a>
\nOpen:<\/strong>\u00a0Monday and then Wednesday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., closed Tuesday
\nPrices:<\/strong>\u00a0main dishes $17.99 to $24.99
\nAccess:<\/strong>\u00a0steps to front door<\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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At Idriss Mediterranean restaurant, the conical pottery beside the cash is both decorative and functional.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s one of many tagines used to cook some of the flavourful Algerian dishes that emerge from Idriss\u2019s kitchen, placed in front of hungry customers with steam still wafting. As I paid for my takeout order, I commented to co-owner Wafa Abouhadjar that it was too bad I had to bring home the food her husband had cooked, in its much less evocative styrofoam packaging, rather than enjoying it as freshly made as possible in Idriss\u2019s 30-seat dining room.<\/p>\n

In the last week, I\u2019ve had lunch and dinner made at Idriss. Both meals were commendably homey and comforting. I made my visits after stumbling across Idriss on a Google map. Opened a few months before the pandemic began, Idriss is Ottawa\u2019s only Algerian restaurant, and so it immediately piqued my curiosity.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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<\/h2>\n
\"Couscous<\/picture>
Couscous Royal from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Of course, Ottawa has had Moroccan restaurants since at least the mid-1980s, and there\u2019s an overlap, at least in menu descriptions, between the dishes of all North African neighbouring states. You\u2019ll find couscous, tagines and other fare from that region of the world on both Moroccan and Algerian menus. Meanwhile, there\u2019s a Merivale Road food truck called Couscous that serves similar Libyan items worth sampling.<\/p>\n

When I asked Abouhadjar for the simplest distinction between Moroccan and Algerian food, she replied that Moroccan cooks would mix sweet and salty tastes in the same dish. \u201cFor us, sweet is by itself and salty by itself. That\u2019s the main thing,\u201d she said. \u201cWe share a lot of common names, but we don\u2019t share the taste.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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<\/h2>\n

I made other Algerian discoveries large and small thanks to Idriss.<\/p>\n

A very pleasant first for me was a main course of rechta ($17.99), which was a heaping serving of light and toothsome house-made Algerian noodles that came topped with a flavourful and tender chicken leg, slabs of turnip and chickpeas. On the side was a cinnamon-scented sauce that we could choose to add or not. Abouhadjar said that, in Algeria, some rechta eaters will add more cinnamon or even orange blossom water at the table.<\/p>\n

\"Rechta<\/picture>
Rechta noodles from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/jpg<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mahjeb (two for $5.99) was a square, stuffed crepe-like flatbread filled with sweet onions and a zesty tomato sauce. While the Eastern European bouraks I\u2019ve had before were delicious filo-based pastries stuffed with meat or spinach, the Algerian versions from Idriss were much closer to spring rolls in terms of their appearance and wrappers, and they contained melted mild cheese as well as ground beef (two for $4.99) or chicken (two for $4.99).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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<\/h2>\n
\"Mhajeb<\/picture>
Mhajeb from Idriss Mediterranean restaurant<\/span>\u00a0Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Borek<\/picture>
Borek from Idriss Mediterranean restaurant<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At dinner, we received containers of what struck us as something like salsa. Consulting Idriss\u2019s menu, we learned the containers held hmiss, a loose and spicy salad of roasted peppers, tomatoes, garlic and olive oil meant to accompany our tagines.<\/p>\n

We tried two of Idriss\u2019s four tagines. The kafta tagine ($18.99) studded another superior tomato sauce with delectable meatballs and two eggs. The very different olive tagine ($18.99) starred another top-notch piece of chicken in a sauce rich with green olives and carrots.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/picture>
The kafta tagine from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The<\/picture>
The olive tagine from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Of three mains featuring grilled meats, we opted for the very satisfying royal grill ($20.99), which loaded marinated grilled chicken, lightly spicy beef merguez sausage and kafta meat patties on fluffy rice mixed with vermicelli. Accompanying this dish were small containers of hummus and an intriguing pumpkin-based sauce.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n

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<\/h2>\n
\"Royal<\/picture>
Royal Grill from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Idriss\u2019s couscous royal ($24.99) was another protein-heavy winner, with another well-bronzed chicken leg, merguez and fall-off-the-bone lamb ribs plus chunks of vegetables on a bed of soft, savoury couscous. More of that cinnamon-scented broth came on the side.<\/p>\n

\"Couscous<\/picture>
Couscous Royal from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Idriss also offers two vegetable gratins: one with eggplant, ground beef, eggs and cheese in a tomato sauce; and another with cauliflower and ground beef in a bechamel sauce ($16.99). The gratin-lover among us gave two thumbs up, but I preferred the other mains.<\/p>\n

\"Two<\/picture>
Two containers of hmiss, a salad of roasted peppers and tomato are shown at left, beside cauliflower gratin and assorted sauces, all from Idriss Mediterranean.<\/span>\u00a0PHOTO BY PETER HUM<\/span>\u00a0\/Postmedia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I have a short list of items to try when I eat in Idriss\u2019s dining room. The restaurant serves shakshouka, the Maghrebi dish of eggs poached in a spiced tomato sauce that has spread across the Middle East and can be had elsewhere in Ottawa for breakfast or brunch. I wish I had caught on earlier that desserts such as baklava, lemon cookies and chocolate pie were house-made. Algerian mint tea at Idriss comes with roasted peanuts and sweet sesame halwa, the Persian confection that went global centuries ago, Abouhadjar told me.<\/p>\n

Given the confidence that Idriss\u2019s dishes inspired when we took them home, we expect to be even more pleased when we pay a proper visit.<\/p>\n

phum@postmedia.com<\/a><\/p>\n<\/section>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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