{"id":47254,"date":"2022-03-02T15:00:08","date_gmt":"2022-03-02T15:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/?p=47254"},"modified":"2022-03-02T21:49:39","modified_gmt":"2022-03-02T21:49:39","slug":"the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/en\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\/","title":{"rendered":"The Mediterranean country with sun, sand and ancient ruins \u2013 but no tourists"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<blockquote><p>There&#8217;s scant desire to promote tourism in this North African country but there are big rewards for the intrepid few who venture there<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>I\u2019m lost in the Kasbah and my nostrils are flaring with the aromas of strawberries, incense, baguettes and diesel fumes.<\/p>\n<p>Like an Escher painting with socialist credentials, it is a maze of ginnels, passageways, alleys and dead ends, with high, flaking walls, most of them filled with murals of the fallen Leftist heroes of this nation; all but forgotten to the outside world but crucial to the story of why the Star of Islam rules supreme here in Algeria, rather than the tricolour.<\/p>\n<p>I stop to rest as the shimmering Mediterranean sun elevates itself high above rooftops scattered with faded khal rugs drying on cast iron railings, rusting satellite dishes and indolent cats.<\/p>\n<p>A kindly artisan beckons me into his workshop. Around him in the spartan room are remnants of anachronistic equipment he uses (though not so frequently these days) to make anything from bedsteads to picture frames.<\/p>\n<p>His long, dune-coloured kamis billows behind him as we climb yet more stairs. Beckoning me onto the roof of his dwelling, he guides me, in silence, towards a kettle where he diligently pours me a tiny cup of fang-meltingly sweet tea.<\/p>\n<p>Gazing out over the city\u2019s rooftops, he breaks the silence. \u2018If you were here in 1962,\u2019 he tells me. \u2018The view from here would be exactly the same.\u2019<\/p>\n<p><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/content\/dam\/travel\/2022\/02\/28\/TELEMMGLPICT000287366977_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqpVlberWd9EgFPZtcLiMQf0Rf_Wk3V23H2268P_XkPxc.jpeg?imwidth=480\" alt=\"Algeria holiday\" width=\"578\" height=\"362\" \/><\/p>\n<p><span data-test=\"caption\">Algeria borders the Mediterranean yet the country receives few international tourists\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"e-caption__credit\" data-test=\"credit\"><span class=\"e-caption__credit-description\">CREDIT<\/span>: ZedamNabil Photography\/Moment RF<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"article-body-image section\" data-test=\"article-body-image\" data-js=\"article-body-image\">\n<div class=\"article-body-image__container\"><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<h4><\/h4>\n<h4 class=\"u-heading-size-medium u-heading-style-colour\">An enthralling city break<\/h4>\n<p>Algiers, as well as offering a trip back in time, might just be the most enthralling Mediterranean city break there is. It has cuisine to rival Beirut, history that outstrips Valletta, sunshine the equal of Malaga and hospitality warm enough to melt the hearts of hardened misanthropes. What\u2019s more, it sits on the same latitude as Sicily and Granada, making the flight time from Heathrow a barely believable two hours and 40 minutes. Yet despite all this, tourists are scarce enough that your very presence turns heads; virtually nobody comes to Algeria.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"html-embed section\" data-test=\"html-embed\">\n<div id=\"wrp-82270428-afca-4582-bb51-769dec8eaa6b\"><iframe id=\"82270428-afca-4582-bb51-769dec8eaa6b\" class=\"tmg-particle-illustrator-embed\" title=\"Algeria\" src=\"https:\/\/cf-particle-html.eip.telegraph.co.uk\/82270428-afca-4582-bb51-769dec8eaa6b.html?i=0&amp;ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.telegraph.co.uk%2Ftravel%2Factivity-and-adventure%2Ftravel-algeria-uk-mediterranean-country-sun-weather-ancient%2F&amp;channel=travel&amp;id=82270428-afca-4582-bb51-769dec8eaa6b&amp;isapp=false&amp;isregistered=false&amp;issubscribed=false&amp;truncated=false&amp;lt=false\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" data-widget-size=\"null\" data-widget-expandable=\"null\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<div><span style=\"text-transform: initial;\">The reasons are obvious. Lingering security concerns and the ruling FLN government\u2019s apparent disinterest in promoting tourism mean that precious few turn their compasses in its direction. But a glance at the Foreign Office\u2019s travel map shows that, with the exception of some very limited border areas, the country is considered completely safe to visit. So is Algeria ready to hit the mainstream? I joined a whistle-stop tour, starting in the alluring capital, to find out.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<p>My guide Omar, waiting for me at the bottom of the Kasbah, where ancient alleyways give way to French colonial-era boulevards and boulangeries, provides a simple explanation for the lack of foreign visitors.<\/p>\n<h4 class=\"u-heading-size-medium u-heading-style-colour\">A distinct lack of promotion<\/h4>\n<p>\u201cMy country gets 98 per cent of its exports from oil and gas \u2013the FLN just don\u2019t see any reason to diversify and try to attract visitors,\u201d he tells me as we walk past wedding-dress white buildings, wrought iron lamp posts and Baroque revival water fountains that look as if they\u2019ve been lifted, brick by brick, directly from Paris and transported down to Africa.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"article-body-image section\" data-test=\"article-body-image\" data-js=\"article-body-image\">\n<div class=\"article-body-image__container\">\n<div class=\"lazy-image article-body-image__source is-ready\" data-js=\"LazyImage\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/content\/dam\/travel\/2022\/02\/28\/TELEMMGLPICT000287732771_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqpVlberWd9EgFPZtcLiMQf0Rf_Wk3V23H2268P_XkPxc.jpeg?imwidth=480\" alt=\"algeria algiers travel holiday\" \/><\/div>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"e-caption u-meta e-caption--has-separator \" data-js=\"caption\"><span data-test=\"caption\">The Casbah of Algiers\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"e-caption__credit\" data-test=\"credit\"><span class=\"e-caption__credit-description\">CREDIT<\/span>: Getty<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<p>There isn\u2019t even an expat community, he adds: \u201cThe Pieds-Noirs [the million strong French population who lived in Algeria prior to the bloody liberation war that resulted in independence in 1962] have all completely gone. There isn\u2019t even anyone here from Tunisia and Morocco.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>For diversity, one must turn to the buildings. Algiers is a city so endowed with historical architecture that the \u2018new\u2019 mosque, down by the harbour, was built in 1660, while Romans, Berbers, Arabs, Ottomans, Moors, as well as the French, have all left their mark. The Kasbah itself, declared a World Heritage Site in 1991, dates back to when this was a Carthaginian trading post, established in the 4th century BC. The bottom half of it was demolished when the French arrived in 1830, building their own botanical gardens, Notre-Dame imitation churches and Beaux Arts museum which today still displays works by Gauguin, Renoir and Monet.<\/p>\n<p>But the most dominant landmark on the horizon today wasn\u2019t created by any of Algeria\u2019s numerous interlopers. The Monument Of The Martyr is a colossal tripod of palm leaves sculpted and cast in concrete, completed in 1981. Reached by cable car, the vast marble-floored edifice underneath looks inviting, until I am sternly warned against treading on the surface by a policeman, sweating out the afternoon with a cigarette in the shade of this memorial to those who died in the long and bloody independence war.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"u-heading-size-medium u-heading-style-colour\">Travelling back in time<\/h2>\n<p>Hurtling along the modern coastal motorway, I arrive the next day in Djemila, founded by Roman Emperor Septimius Severus as a retirement village for elderly centurions.<\/p>\n<p>In a region that was considered the breadbasket of the Empire, Djemila is just one of myriad Roman ruins in Algeria. It is a vast site, requiring a full day to properly explore, yet I have it almost to myself. I find weighing tables used by market vendors to measure out olive oil, a block of communal toilets (no longer in use), a 3,000-seat amphitheatre, numerous temples and houses, all surrounded by olive groves, gently undulating hills and crowned by ebullient, crayon blue skies.<\/p>\n<p>Amid the emptiness, with nothing but the occasional local family eyeing their children as they use the ruins as a giant playground, local guide Bill Benguedouar, educated in antiquities in the nearby city of Constantine, tells me that barely 40 per cent of the city has been excavated so far.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"article-body-image section\" data-test=\"article-body-image\" data-js=\"article-body-image\">\n<div class=\"article-body-image__container\">\n<div class=\"lazy-image article-body-image__source is-ready\" data-js=\"LazyImage\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/content\/dam\/travel\/2022\/02\/28\/TELEMMGLPICT000287732767_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqjvE9Rr87xStm87qEynN5NHgVpNmjPUZ1ciwxywzMssg.jpeg?imwidth=480\" alt=\"Djemila algeria\" \/><\/div>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"e-caption u-meta e-caption--has-separator \" data-js=\"caption\"><span data-test=\"caption\">Djemila is a vast, well-preserved site of Roman antiquities\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"e-caption__credit\" data-test=\"credit\"><span class=\"e-caption__credit-description\">CREDIT<\/span>: Alamy<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<p>A museum houses some of the remarkable, and gargantuan, mosaics found here. There\u2019s more than a touch of Quentin Blake to the affectionate portraits of birds, lion hunting and horse racing that all took place in what must have been, I conclude, one of the most attractive cities anywhere in the Empire.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4 class=\"u-heading-size-medium u-heading-style-colour\">Sleepy desert life<\/h4>\n<p>My final stop is inland. Being the largest country in Africa (Algeria is roughly the size of Western Europe) means a domestic flight is all but inevitable for a journey into the Saharan dunes, sand and scrub that make up so much of the country. A 90-minute hop takes me to the dusty airstrip at Bechar from where it is another hour by car to the oasis town of Taghit.<\/p>\n<p>Here, on the very fringe of the Great Western Erg, the pace of life is glacial. An ancient, mud-walled\u00a0<em>ksar<\/em>\u00a0(castle) stands forlorn and deserted, a river bed lies dry and strewn with fallen palm branches. One market seller begins to pack up his stall for the day at 11am; there are simply no visitors to buy his fridge magnets and scarves.<\/p>\n<p>It takes about ten minutes to walk through the centre of Taghit but I feel I have travelled 1,000 years back in time from the metropolitan hubbub of Algiers (tacky souvenirs notwithstanding).<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<figure class=\"article-body-image section\" data-test=\"article-body-image\" data-js=\"article-body-image\">\n<div class=\"article-body-image__container\">\n<div class=\"lazy-image article-body-image__source is-ready\" data-js=\"LazyImage\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/content\/dam\/travel\/2022\/02\/28\/TELEMMGLPICT000287367381_trans_NvBQzQNjv4Bq0quQUhCPHdUHY_XWT5Ck7ziIXdNr9atEw2H4ySp7WWI.jpeg?imwidth=480\" alt=\"Algeria holiday\" \/><\/div>\n<\/div><figcaption class=\"e-caption u-meta e-caption--has-separator \" data-js=\"caption\"><span data-test=\"caption\">Taghit is a sleepy desert town\u00a0<\/span><span class=\"e-caption__credit\" data-test=\"credit\"><span class=\"e-caption__credit-description\">CREDIT<\/span>: Frans Lemmens\/Corbis Unreleased<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"articleBodyText section\">\n<div class=\"component article-body-text \" data-test=\"article-body-text\">\n<p>At sunset, on a lonely brown ridge that rises from the scrub ten minutes\u2019 drive out of town, I venture even further back in time.\u00a0Clambering up a series of boulders I crane my head over a ledge to see highly-stylised neolithic rock paintings of antelopes and some almost comically wobbly herds of cattle. Closing my eyes, I hear the kind of silence that only the desert can give you; ominous, without breath, expectant of nothing except the fall and rise of the insistent sun.<\/p>\n<p>Returning to Taghit, I spot a camel on the side of the road. The beast looks miffed at my disturbing him from contentedly chewing the leaves of an acacia tree.\u00a0I stand there for a moment, watching the threatening looking dunes beyond and chewing on a date, bought from the only shop in town that stays open past lunchtime.<\/p>\n<p>His owner is nowhere to be seen. And I suspect that\u2019s just how this dromedary likes it. Unlikely to be burdened by queues of tourists wanting a ride around the dunes, a life unlikely to ever be disturbed by mass tourism. We part, walking in different directions; he toward the dunes and me towards the sleepiest of towns in a country whose tourism potential is still waiting to be awakened.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2 class=\"u-heading-size-medium u-heading-style-normal\">How to do it<\/h2>\n<p>Lupine Travel (<a href=\"http:\/\/lupinetravel.co.uk\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">lupinetravel.co.uk<\/a>) offers a seven-day escorted group tour of Algeria with a local guide for \u00a3845 including all meals but excluding flights and visa costs.<\/p>\n<p>BA (<a href=\"http:\/\/ba.com\/\">ba.com<\/a>) flies direct from Heathrow to Algiers from \u00a3189 return. The Heathrow Aerotel (<a href=\"http:\/\/myaerotel.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">myaerotel.com<\/a>) is located inside Terminal Three and offers rooms from \u00a3135.<\/p>\n<p>Tourist visas for Algeria cost \u00a385 and must be applied for in advance. More details at\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/algerian-consulate.org.uk\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">algerian-consulate.org.uk<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Source : <a href=\"https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/travel\/activity-and-adventure\/travel-algeria-uk-mediterranean-country-sun-weather-ancient\/\">https:\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/travel\/activity-and-adventure\/travel-algeria-uk-mediterranean-country-sun-weather-ancient\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>There&#8217;s scant desire to promote tourism in this North African country but there are big rewards for the intrepid few who venture&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":50,"featured_media":47258,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[12,4,8,13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47254","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-economy","category-featured-articles","category-health","category-the-algerian-sahara"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Mediterranean country with sun, sand and ancient ruins \u2013 but no tourists - AAH.JZR<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/en\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Mediterranean country with sun, sand and ancient ruins \u2013 but no tourists - AAH.JZR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There&#8217;s scant desire to promote tourism in this North African country but there are big rewards for the intrepid few who venture&hellip;\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/en\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"AAH.JZR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jazairhope\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-03-02T15:00:08+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-03-02T21:49:39+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Capture-1.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"846\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"551\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Hope Jzr\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Hope Jzr\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/en\\\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/en\\\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Hope Jzr\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/0b50f60fad840cf92313307e38c9d20d\"},\"headline\":\"The Mediterranean country with sun, sand and ancient ruins \u2013 but no tourists\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-03-02T15:00:08+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-03-02T21:49:39+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/en\\\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1497,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/en\\\/the-mediterranean-country-with-sun-sand-and-ancient-ruins-but-no-tourists\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/jazairhope.org\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/03\\\/Capture-1.png\",\"articleSection\":[\"Economy\",\"Featured Articles\",\"Health &amp; 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