Despite having plenty of top attractions \u2013 a capital by the Mediterranean, ancient Roman ruins, and the Saharan desert \u2013 Africa\u2019s largest country doesn\u2019t draw big numbers from abroad, making me a novelty to my new Algerian-French friend.<\/p>\n
There are reasons you don\u2019t hear Algeria spoken about in the same breath as other North African destinations like Morocco, Tunisia and Egypt. For one, it\u2019s an oil-rich nation that doesn\u2019t rely heavily on tourism. It has also suffered reputational damage from what\u2019s known as \u2018the Dark Decade\u2019 when, in the \u201990s and 00s, a brutal civil war between the government and Islamist rebel groups saw tens of thousands killed.<\/p>\n
Add to that no visa-on-arrival option for European citizens (the visa application process with the Algerian embassy in Dublin takes at least two weeks), and suddenly those neighbouring countries are a much more attractive proposition.<\/p>\n
But that\u2019s not to say Algeria can\u2019t compete.<\/p>\n
Its capital, Algiers, is a vast, bustling city with an intriguing mix of French-style boulevards and Islamic architecture. The Unesco-listed Casbah is its beating heart, where you\u2019ll find traditional homes, palaces and mosques still perfectly preserved. You can wander the twisting alleyways and discover a neighbourhood that was the key battleground in the 1956-\u201957 Battle of Algiers, compellingly brought to life in Gillo Pontecorvo\u2019s 1966 film.<\/p>\n
Algeria\u2019s troubled history is still rooted in the minds of its people and marked widely across the city, such as in Martyrs\u2019 Square, named in honour of the 4,000 Algerians who were killed defending the Ketchaoua mosque during different periods of French occupation.<\/p>\n
At the Martyrs\u2019 Memorial, you can learn about the country\u2019s 132-year struggle for independence within its museum. The imposing concrete monument, represented by three standing palm leaves sheltering an eternal flame, stands 92 metres tall and can be seen from various vantage points in the city. It looks down on the 54-hectare Botanical Gardens (Jardin d’Essai), a tranquil oasis that includes over 2,500 species of plants and trees and was the film location for\u00a0Tarzan<\/em>\u00a0in 1938. You can reach both from the centre by taking the city metro.<\/p>\n Among other notable landmarks in the capital are the Grand Mosque, the third biggest in the world; the Basilica of Our Lady of Africa; and the Grande Poste, a fine example of French-designed, early 20th-century Moorish architecture.<\/p>\n While over 99 per cent of Algerians identify as Muslim, there\u2019s another dominant religion visible in Algiers \u2013 football. Particularly since the Fennecs brought an exciting brand of football to the 2014 World Cup with emerging talent such as Riyad Mahrez and Islam Slimani, locals can\u2019t get enough. Murals adorn city walls displaying the crests and colours of the two local rival clubs, USM Alger and MC Alger.<\/p>\n My trip coincided with Algeria\u2019s 2026 World Cup qualifier against Somalia, which meant I could see that religion on full display at the Nelson Mandela Stadium on the outskirts of the city. Named after the former South African president who once described Algeria as his second homeland, the new stadium is an impressive feat of modern design. In front of a raucous crowd of almost 41,000, Algeria got their qualifying campaign off to a winning start with a comfortable 3-1 victory.<\/p>\n Located on the Mediterranean coast around 70km west of Algiers lies Tipaza. Along with Djemila and Timgad, it\u2019s one of three Roman sites in Algeria on the Unesco World Heritage List. Journalist-turned-guide Loubna takes me on a tour of the area, which once served as an important trading port for the Romans. Among the ruins dating back to the second century BC is a basilica, two cemeteries, baths, a theatre and amphitheatre. So quiet is the site, it feels like we have it all to ourselves, a far cry from the crowds you\u2019d see at a similar attraction in Europe.<\/p>\n After a visit to the nearby Cherchell Museum, which houses some of the best examples of Roman and Greek antiquities in Africa, we head for some street food. The Algerian taco \u2013 a wrap stuffed with meat, cheese and fries, topped with a spicy sauce \u2013 hits the spot. Most Algerian cuisine is meat-heavy with bread on the side. Expect to see its national dish, couscous, on every menu, along with various tagines and its unique noodle dish called rechta. Of course, outside influences have shaped Algerian food, and you won\u2019t go far without seeing a local carrying the ubiquitous French baguette.<\/p>\n On the way back to Algiers, we stop at the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, said to be the resting place of Cleopatra Selene II and Berber Juba II, the last king and queen of the Mauretania Kingdom. Resembling a cross between Newgrange and the Egyptian Pyramids, the circular monument was built entirely from stone in 3BC. While visitors can\u2019t go inside, it\u2019s worth a stop just to see the exterior.<\/p>\n A 90-minute flight south of the capital takes me to Gharda\u00efa and the fortified villages of the M’Zab Valley in the heart of the Saharan desert. Another of Algeria\u2019s seven Unesco sites, El-Atteuf, Bounoura, Melika, Gharda\u00efa and B\u00e9ni-Isguen were founded between 1012 and 1350 and today possess a culture that has been preserved throughout centuries.<\/p>\n Following what felt like an unnecessary police escort from the airport (my driver tells me the police organise pick-up for tourists because they have nothing better to do), I get my first glimpse of the valley from above. Minarets, both in Arab and Berber architectural styles, pop out of a cluster of sandy-coloured dwellings.<\/p>\n This is a much more traditional part of Algeria, and upon entering the villages, it feels like you\u2019re stepping back in time or walking onto the set of a Mad Max film. Men wear pleated baggy trousers called sarouel loubia, while women cover themselves with a traditional white garb known as the haik, which leaves nothing but an eyehole to peer out of.<\/p>\n In these villages, tourists must always be accompanied by official guides who are at pains to point out that locals should not be photographed. As one tourist snaps a street scene, our guide looks for assurance there\u2019s no one in the picture. It\u2019s a fair ask of tourists, as these people grapple with the tricky balancing act of opening their doors to visitors and protecting their traditions.<\/p>\n My guide for the village of El Atteuf, a charismatic 82-year-old named Ibrahim who speaks a mix of French, Arabic and English, does an excellent job of diverting attention away from locals onto himself, shouting \u201ctourist photo!\u201d whenever a good photo opportunity of him against a suitable backdrop appears. The Czech group of tourists with me lap it up and capture him at every angle they can get.<\/p>\n Later that day, another local guide, Khaled, takes me on a tour of B\u00e9ni-Isgue. He explains how the village\u2019s architecture was designed for community living \u2013 made simple, functional and adapted to the environment \u2013 and why it still serves as inspiration for urban planners today. I\u2019m also treated to an auction in the village\u2019s main square, a centuries-old tradition where men get animated over the sale of everything from scrap metal to home appliances, before finishing the day catching the sunset from the top of a minaret.<\/p>\n For my second day in Gharda\u00efa, we drive to the Mansoura District of the Saharan desert, which lies on the Trans-Sahara Highway. There, among the sand dunes beside the 4×4, my driver lights a fire and prepares sweet Algerian tea. The dunes look as you\u2019d imagine in the Sahara \u2013 smooth, still and mesmerising. We do precisely what you might do in the middle of the desert \u2013 nothing, except guess which animal made prints in the sand and marvel at the vastness of it all.<\/p>\n Back in Algiers on my final day, I\u2019m keen to do some exploring without a guide, so I ask my contact, Islam of Fancyellow Travel Services, if there\u2019s another day trip he\u2019d recommend. That leads me to Dellys, a small coastal town two hours from the capital. While it offers little in the way of attractions, it shows some promise. So much so that Islam plans to add a guided tour of the town to his agency\u2019s itinerary.<\/p>\n It gets me thinking about Algeria as a whole and how it, too, still has some way to go before reaching anywhere close to its full potential. But perhaps that\u2019s the beauty of it. What it lacks in tourism infrastructure, it makes up for in hospitality, and what you get is a very authentic experience of a North African country steeped in tradition.<\/p>\n As Tipaza guide Loubna puts it, \u201cWhen you come to Algeria, you don\u2019t feel like a tourist, you feel like a guest,\u201d and that\u2019s precisely how I feel when it\u2019s time to leave.<\/p>\n Joseph flew Air France from Dublin to Algiers via Paris in November for \u20ac285 return. He explored Algeria with Fancyellow Travel Services, which organises customised private tours throughout the country. For more visit fancyalgeria.com.<\/p>\n<\/div>
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Getting<\/strong>\u00a0There<\/h3>\n