{"id":96470,"date":"2024-01-01T02:40:45","date_gmt":"2024-01-01T01:40:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/?p=96470"},"modified":"2024-01-01T02:40:45","modified_gmt":"2024-01-01T01:40:45","slug":"i-took-my-toddler-to-algeria-and-we-were-welcomed-warmly-everywhere","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/en\/i-took-my-toddler-to-algeria-and-we-were-welcomed-warmly-everywhere\/","title":{"rendered":"I took my toddler to Algeria \u2013 and we were welcomed warmly everywhere"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"dcr-1yi1cnj\" data-gu-name=\"standfirst\">\n<div class=\" dcr-xq41iu\">\n<p>Our writer discovers \u2018a young, exciting and proud nation\u2019 \u2013 little known to western visitors \u2013 amid Roman ruins and remnants of war<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"dcr-1p1jrx6\" data-gu-name=\"disclaimer\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/profile\/amy-liptrot\" rel=\"author\" data-link-name=\"auto tag link\">Amy Liptrot<\/a>\u00a0Sat 30 Dec 2023 07.00 GMT<\/div>\n<aside class=\"dcr-1rbr3jc\" data-gu-name=\"meta\">\n<div class=\"dcr-14emo0l\">\n<div class=\" dcr-c7ke56\">\n<div class=\"dcr-rnfrqq\">\n<div class=\"dcr-9dgpdq\" data-print-layout=\"hide\">\n<div class=\" dcr-do307f\"><\/div>\n<div class=\" dcr-10u93vk\">\n<div class=\"dcr-14baf59\">\n<div><span class=\"dcr-11l45yn\">W<\/span>aking after a night at sea, I was elated to look out of the cabin window and see the city of Algiers, blazing white. The splendid capital rises from its Mediterranean bay in improbable layers, from the arches of the French colonial port to the warren of the Casbah, to the clear blue sky, all overlooked by the Martyrs\u2019 Memorial, which represents the country\u2019s fight for independence. \u201cNever was town more nobly placed,\u201d wrote\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/books\/2004\/oct\/23\/classics.algeria\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Edith Wharton<\/a>, who visited by yacht in 1888. In the cabin, my toddler son was still sleeping. I looked at him and thought, we\u2019ve made it, baby: all the way from West Yorkshire to north Africa by rail and sea in 48 hours.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"dcr-ch7w1w\" data-gu-name=\"body\">\n<div class=\"dcr-a3jqao\">\n<div id=\"maincontent\" class=\"dcr-ty818o\">\n<div class=\"article-body-commercial-selector article-body-viewer-selector  dcr-1n99hlx\">\n<figure id=\"5924eb03-62bf-4658-8f6a-90e389a846fa\" class=\" dcr-a2pvoh\" data-spacefinder-role=\"supporting\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-2\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=380&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=380&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=300&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=300&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/baff664926ebf3795c24f3ae57b7870a8a5f7add\/59_32_1417_618\/master\/1417.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"map\" width=\"445\" height=\"194.07904022582923\" \/><\/picture><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<div id=\"sign-in-gate\"><\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">The journey would have been familiar to British travellers of the 19th century who arrived here by steamship, but these days few foreign tourists come to Algeria. Political unrest since the civil war of the 1990s, the administration\u2019s focus on internal matters and a lack of infrastructure have knocked it completely off the tourist map. So when I was invited as a\u00a0guest of the British Council Algeria as part of a literary exchange, I\u00a0jumped at the chance.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">My one-year-old son was too young to be left, so I cheekily asked if he could come too. To my delight, the British Council agreed and my capable friend Karen Hinckley accompanied me to help with childcare while I was working. The events were to be on an environmental theme, so it was appropriate to make the trip without flying. Karen and I\u00a0come from the Orkney Islands, so are undaunted by long journeys.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"205013c4-8653-4ca2-933d-3d5f51d894c4\" class=\" dcr-173mewl\" data-spacefinder-role=\"inline\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-3\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/d162848b4c9b17edb1931783d6c715b52aba6991\/0_333_900_540\/master\/900.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"Amy Liptrot traveling to Algeria with her toddler\" width=\"445\" height=\"267\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-14i6lp8\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">Amy Liptrot on the ferry from Marseilles to Algiers with her toddler.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: Amy Liptrot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container ad-slot-container-2 offset-right ad-slot--offset-right ad-slot-container--offset-right\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline2\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline2 ad-slot--sky ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline2\" data-name=\"inline2\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"CL2uwZKGu4MDFU2fJwIdjZcN-g\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_6__container__\" class=\"ad-slot__content\">Applying for Algerian visas and booking the ferry was a confusing process and required assistance from our Algerian contacts, but we were pleased to find we could get as far as Marseille in one day. We took five trains, leaving home at 7am and arriving around 8pm, with tight changes in Leeds, London and Paris. On the train, two adults to one small child was a good ratio. One of us was able to take him for a walk, where he pushed buttons and smiled at strangers, while the other rested.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">After a 40-minute dash across Paris to change trains, we boarded the spacious double decker TGV, travelling at more than 150mph and watching as city rooftops turned to vineyards and lavender fields as we headed south.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"9c8417eb-089f-42c1-a8c2-9ee0ea3160e0\" class=\" dcr-5h0uf4\" data-spacefinder-role=\"showcase\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-4\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/278d01d744565c09a5fc93fdac145c0ad78f895f\/0_0_5350_3567\/master\/5350.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"Martyrs\u2019 Square and Ketchaoua mosque, Algiers.\" width=\"445\" height=\"296.6943925233645\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-1csa5qs\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">Martyrs\u2019 Square and Ketchaoua mosque, Algiers.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: Saad Bakhouche\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">On the huge Alg\u00e9rie Ferries ship from Marseille, the three of us seemed to be the only non-Algerian or French-Algerian tourists. Everyone else seemed to be experienced in doing the 19-hour journey, those who couldn\u2019t afford cabins bringing air mattresses to bed down in the ship\u2019s hallways. A\u00a0crowd piled into the glitzy dining room for a dinner of noodles and cr\u00e8me caramel.<\/p>\n<aside class=\"dcr-1jdqcld\">\n<blockquote class=\"dcr-zzndwp\"><p>During the week there were moments when, overheated and overstimulated, I feared I had taken on\u00a0more than I could handle<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/aside>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container ad-slot-container-3 offset-right ad-slot--offset-right ad-slot-container--offset-right\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline3\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline3 ad-slot--sky ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline3\" data-name=\"inline3\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"COnpwZOGu4MDFWxdpAQdPOcGVw\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_7__container__\" class=\"ad-slot__content\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">An Algerian man talked to us in the lift and seemed surprised or impressed that we were making the journey to Algiers despite \u201cthe problems\u201d. I was unsure which problems he was referring to. \u201cGood luck!\u201d he said \u201cThere are problems. And it is good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">This phrase became my personal mantra for the trip. Out on deck at sunset, among Arab men and the smell of diesel and smoke, no land in sight, I was calm. The boat shuddered. The prayer room was full.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">On arrival in Algiers we were met by Wahiba from the British Council and taken to our home for the week: the grand Moorish Villa Dar Abdellatif, all whitewashed archways, shady courtyards and tiled roof terraces, high on the west side of the city, gated and guarded 24\/7. The villa was an artists\u2019 residence from 1907 and today houses the headquarters of the Algerian Agency for Cultural Outreach (AARC) as well as private guests.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"7c62ba14-a21d-4bd9-84a7-133d9354cd6b\" class=\" dcr-173mewl\" data-spacefinder-role=\"inline\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-5\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/8c543ca7dc922a4346388e354f7103bacfa081dc\/0_0_6720_4480\/master\/6720.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"The warren-like Casbah part of Algiers.\" width=\"445\" height=\"296.66666666666663\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-14i6lp8\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">The warren-like Casbah part of Algiers.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: Prisma by Dukas Presseagentur \/Alamy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">The Algerian students, artists, writers and other interested people who attended my simultaneously translated book events were switched on and perceptive. They were particularly interested to hear about how the genre of \u201cnature writing\u201d is popular in the UK and wanted to talk about the environmental issues that concerned them, including pollution, plastic waste and soil erosion.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container ad-slot-container-4 offset-right ad-slot--offset-right ad-slot-container--offset-right\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline4\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline4 ad-slot--sky ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline4\" data-name=\"inline4\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"COy6q5SGu4MDFcGZJwIddi0Mig\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_8__container__\" class=\"ad-slot__content\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">One sweltering day, we left the city to visit the Unesco-listed Roman ruins at Tipaza, which include an amphitheatre of red-hued sandstone, with some intact, intricate mosaic flooring. Romans were just one of the waves of settlers in Algeria that included Phoenicians, Ottomans, Spanish and French, all of whom left their mark. A group of Kabyle women \u2013 the indigenous Berbers \u2013 arrived on a day out, singing and playing drums with joyful ululation, then walked into the sea fully clothed and laughing.<\/p>\n<aside class=\"dcr-1jdqcld\">\n<blockquote class=\"dcr-zzndwp\"><p>The\u00a0street markets here sell fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices for locals rather than tourist souvenirs<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/aside>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Just beyond the ruins, a memorial to the writer\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/books\/albertcamus\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Albert Camus<\/a>, who was born and brought up in the country when it was a French colony, stands looking out to sea.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Not only had we come to Algeria in a\u00a0midsummer heatwave \u2013 hot even by Algerian standards \u2013 but also in the week of the year when the internet had been commandeered for the nation\u2019s baccalaureate exams. As I sat with Wahiba one day, her phone rang and it was my number. I\u00a0had called her 10 minutes earlier, but it had only just worked its way through various mobile\u00a0networks and wifi connections. The call mirrored how I felt: strange and dislocated.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"5405c8b0-b20e-4bce-9678-e5a12bb8e280\" class=\" dcr-5h0uf4\" data-spacefinder-role=\"showcase\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-6\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/32bc30a9a84274950868a837b4425b05a9f5a235\/0_0_5184_3110\/master\/5184.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"Les Canadiennes Beach a few miles to the east of Algiers.\" width=\"445\" height=\"266.96566358024694\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-1csa5qs\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">Les Canadiennes Beach a few miles to the east of Algiers.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: ZedamNabil \/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">During the week there were several moments when, overheated and overstimulated, I feared I had taken on more than I could handle. One afternoon, a fire broke out in the dry grounds of the villa and the tranquil place was suddenly busy with hoses, buckets and extinguishers. Travelling with a child is a responsibility, and my son was so unsettled in the heat and unfamiliarity that I started breastfeeding him again, weeks after having stopped.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container \">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline1\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline1 ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline1\" data-name=\"inline1\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"CJTCkJWGu4MDFaZYpAQdkv0PHg\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline1--passback\" class=\"ad-slot js-ad-slot\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"CJPA05aGu4MDFUahJwIdRewCUg\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_11__container__\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">On our last day, we took a guided tour of the Casbah of Algiers, the historic citadel area of the city, weaving among steep lanes between the high walls of houses, mosques and palaces. The\u00a0street markets here sell fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices for locals rather than tourist souvenirs, and musicians played the Algerian\u00a0<em class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">mandole<\/em>\u00a0under large patriotic murals. We saw the ruins of buildings bombed by the French during the war of independence and places where Algerian fighters hid,\u00a0as later portrayed in the 1966 film\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/culture\/2000\/jul\/20\/artsfeatures\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">The Battle of Algiers<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Walking up hundreds of steps with\u00a0my son on my back, I feared heatstroke, but then we reached a rooftop with stunning views of the whole city and were refreshed with mint tea and honeyed couscous as we heard the call to prayer drifting up from all the mosques at once.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"4103e2af-d4e0-4552-8c06-29e91c49b280\" class=\" dcr-5h0uf4\" data-spacefinder-role=\"showcase\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-7\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/68e271afdaae6549fbb4f48663e1874c14cecea1\/0_179_6000_3600\/master\/6000.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"The 1910-built Grande Poste of Algiers on Boulevard Mohamed-Khemisti.\" width=\"445\" height=\"267\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-1csa5qs\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">The 1910-built Grande Poste of Algiers on Boulevard Mohamed-Khemisti.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: Habib_Boucetta\/Getty Images\/iStockphoto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container ad-slot-container-5 offset-right ad-slot--offset-right ad-slot-container--offset-right\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline5\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline5 ad-slot--sky ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline5\" data-name=\"inline5\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"CMO3qpWGu4MDFcOfJwIdTcAG-g\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_9__container__\" class=\"ad-slot__content\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">It was a huge privilege to visit a country that is not on the tourist trail.\u00a0We were welcomed warmly everywhere. A curly-haired one-year-old was a connection across language barriers. My son had his cheeks kissed, chased the many cats and ate delicious local cherries and figs. Never on the visit were we able to wander alone; we always had a guide or a driver waiting. There have been kidnappings of western tourists in the country and I\u00a0was being kept safe, and shown the best of the city, such as the impeccable Botanical Garden of Hamma, where families strolled among fountains and gigantic palms.<\/p>\n<aside class=\"dcr-1jdqcld\">\n<blockquote class=\"dcr-zzndwp\"><p>From the villa\u2019s roof, I looked at the lights of the city, enjoying the Mediterranean sea air and African heat<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/aside>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">I found a young, exciting, proud nation. I loved the way Algerians speak a distinctive mix of Arabic, French and Berber.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=XZxbwjuJbEs\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">DJ Snake\u2019s Disco Maghreb<\/a>\u00a0was high in the global YouTube charts with a video mixing traditional Algerian culture with modern Arab style and we talked about it with a smart English-language student, Brahim.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Up on the roof of the villa in the warm night, hanging out baby clothes to dry, I looked at the lights of the city and the port, Saharan sand in the air, enjoying the mix of Mediterranean Sea air and African heat. Neither Karen nor I\u00a0were quite prepared for how different we would find the country. Men and women were mainly separate in public. There were few imported goods in the shops and no bank machines or external postal service. The pace was slower and people were open.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"3dbf50be-4b42-4527-8220-470db6f5357d\" class=\" dcr-5h0uf4\" data-spacefinder-role=\"showcase\" data-spacefinder-type=\"model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement\">\n<div id=\"img-8\" class=\"dcr-1t8m8f2\"><picture class=\"dcr-evn1e9\"><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1300px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=880&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1300px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 1140px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=800&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 1140px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 980px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=640&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 980px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 660px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=620&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 660px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 480px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=605&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 480px)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=2&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px) and (-webkit-min-device-pixel-ratio: 1.25), (min-width: 320px) and (min-resolution: 120dpi)\" \/><source srcset=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" media=\"(min-width: 320px)\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"dcr-evn1e9\" src=\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/4c4870a18fa37b6768c230c3ea9eba9dab9e3ad2\/0_251_4473_2683\/master\/4473.jpg?width=445&amp;dpr=1&amp;s=none\" alt=\"A view over the roofs of the Casbah.\" width=\"445\" height=\"266.92041135703107\" \/><\/picture><\/div><figcaption class=\"dcr-1csa5qs\"><span class=\"dcr-1qvd3m6\">A view over the roofs of the Casbah.<\/span>\u00a0Photograph: Habib_Boucetta\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"ad-slot-container ad-slot-container-6 offset-right ad-slot--offset-right ad-slot-container--offset-right\">\n<div id=\"dfp-ad--inline6\" class=\"js-ad-slot ad-slot ad-slot--inline ad-slot--inline6 ad-slot--sky ad-slot--rendered\" data-link-name=\"ad slot inline6\" data-name=\"inline6\" aria-hidden=\"true\" data-google-query-id=\"CLf9-pWGu4MDFbmcJwIdWgcKDA\" data-label-show=\"true\">\n<div id=\"google_ads_iframe_\/59666047\/theguardian.com\/travel\/article\/ng_10__container__\" class=\"ad-slot__content\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Travelling by train and ferry required a slightly different, slower, mindset, seeing the journey as part of the holiday. Parenting on the road is hard work, but I have to do this stuff \u2013 the pyjamas, the nap times, the pasta \u2013 wherever we are, so why not do it in interesting places?<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">It is right to consider environmental impact when travelling to Algeria, as the country is bearing the brunt of climate change.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2023\/jul\/26\/northern-hemisphere-heatwaves-mediterranean-fires-croatia-portugal#:~:text=At%20least%2034%20people%20were,1%2C500%20people%20from%20their%20properties.\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Wildfires raged<\/a>\u00a0in the north of Algeria this year, killing a reported 34 people and undermining the forest restoration projects I visited.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Our voyage to lively, hot Algiers felt like an adventure of an old-fashioned kind. It was special to share it with my young son and my old friend and it\u2019s something we\u2019ll always remember. There might have been problems but it\u00a0was good.<\/p>\n<p class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\"><em class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">Amy Liptrot is the author of the best-selling memoir The Outrun, which has been made into a film starring Saoirse Ronan and which premieres\u00a0<\/em><em class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">next month at the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/festival.sundance.org\/program\/film\/6569fcf9fac9f46ec2c03908\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Sundance film festival<\/a>. She travelled as a guest of the British Council. Visitors need a visa from the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/embassyofalgeria.uk\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Embassy of Algeria<\/a>, which takes a minimum of 10 days. The TGV train from Paris to Marseille<\/em><em class=\"dcr-1jv7e0x\">\u00a0takes 3 to 4 hours.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/algerieferries.com\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Alg\u00e9rie Ferries<\/a>\u00a0sails from Marseille to Algiers twice a week (21 to 23 hours). UK-based\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/lupinetravel.co.uk\/algeria-holidays-and-tours\/\" data-link-name=\"in body link\">Lupine Travel<\/a>\u00a0runs seven-night group tours of Algeria from \u00a3980pp, including accommodation, local transport and guides, but not international travel<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Source : <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/travel\/2023\/dec\/30\/i-took-my-toddler-to-algeria-and-we-were-welcomed-warmly-everywhere\">https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/travel\/2023\/dec\/30\/i-took-my-toddler-to-algeria-and-we-were-welcomed-warmly-everywhere<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Our writer discovers \u2018a young, exciting and proud nation\u2019 \u2013 little known to western visitors \u2013 amid Roman ruins and remnants of&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":50,"featured_media":96471,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,10,4,14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-96470","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-algeria","category-art","category-featured-articles","category-historyheritage"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.7 - 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