{"id":24558,"date":"2021-07-22T12:07:26","date_gmt":"2021-07-22T12:07:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/?p=24558"},"modified":"2021-07-22T12:07:26","modified_gmt":"2021-07-22T12:07:26","slug":"lalgerie-memoire-dun-beau-pays","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jazairhope.org\/fr\/lalgerie-memoire-dun-beau-pays\/","title":{"rendered":"L’Alg\u00e9rie m\u00e9moire d’un beau pays"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Par Virginie Bloch-Lain\u00e9<\/a>, (avec Albert Camus)<\/section>\n
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publi\u00e9 le 11 avril 2020<\/div>\n
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Une mani\u00e8re commode de faire la connaissance d\u2019une ville ou d\u2019un pays est de chercher comment on y travaille, comment on y aime et comment on y meurt. Mettons de c\u00f4t\u00e9 le travail et la mort et promenons-nous dans une Alg\u00e9rie qui, au printemps et \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, invite \u00e0 l\u2019amour\u2026<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Point de d\u00e9part \u00e0 900 m\u00e8tres d’altitude\u00a0: les ruines de Djemila, situ\u00e9es en bordure du Constantinois. Il s’agit de l’ancienne cit\u00e9 romaine de Cuicul, fond\u00e9e \u00e0 la fin du Ier<\/sup>\u00a0si\u00e8cle. Elle compte un forum, des temples et un capitole. Il faut beaucoup de temps pour aller \u00e0 Djemila. Ce n’est pas une ville o\u00f9 l’on s’arr\u00eate et que l’on d\u00e9passe. Elle ne m\u00e8ne nulle part et n’ouvre sur aucun pays. C’est un lieu d’o\u00f9 l’on revient. La ville morte est au terme d’une longue route en lacet qui semble la promettre \u00e0 chacun de ses tournants et para\u00eet d’autant plus longue. Lorsque surgit enfin sur un plateau, aux couleurs \u00e9teintes, son squelette jaun\u00e2tre comme une for\u00eat d’ossements, Dj\u00e9mila figure alors cette le\u00e7on d’amour et de patience qui peut seule nous conduire au c\u0153ur battant du monde. L\u00e0, parmi quelques arbres, de l’herbe s\u00e8che, elle se d\u00e9fend de toutes ses montagnes et de toutes ses pierres, contre l’admiration vulgaire. A 300\u00a0kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 l’ouest se trouve Alger o\u00f9, pour qui est jeune et vivant, tout est refuge et pr\u00e9texte \u00e0 triomphes\u00a0: la baie, le soleil, les jeux en rouge et blanc des terrasses vers la mer, les fleurs et les stades, les filles aux jambes fra\u00eeches.<\/p>\n

\"Algeria,
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Algeria, Kabylia, Djemila roman ruins (Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Soreau\/Photononstop via AFP)<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Les ruines de Dj\u00e9mila.<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Photo Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Soreau. Photononstop. AFP<\/p>\n

Odeurs et lumi\u00e8res<\/h3>\n
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A Alger, on ne dit pas\u00a0\u00abprendre un bain\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0mais\u00a0\u00abse taper un bain\u00bb<\/em>. Avant la baignade, traversons le populaire quartier Belcourt, qui a conserv\u00e9 ce nom apr\u00e8s l’ind\u00e9pendance. C’\u00e9tait mon quartier, non pas natal puisque je suis n\u00e9 \u00e0 Dr\u00e9an, mais celui o\u00f9 j’ai grandi, dans un minuscule appartement de la rue de Lyon\u00a0; au num\u00e9ro\u00a093 plus exactement. Dans les cin\u00e9mas de mon enfance, on vendait quelques fois des pastilles de menthe qui portaient, grav\u00e9 en rouge, tout ce qui est n\u00e9cessaire \u00e0 la naissance de l’amour. 1.\u00a0Des questions\u00a0:\u00a0\u00abQuand m’\u00e9pouserez-vous\u00a0?\u00bb\u00a0<\/em>;\u00a0\u00abM’aimez-vous?\u00bb.<\/em>\u00a02. des r\u00e9ponses\u00a0:\u00a0\u00abA la folie\u00bb<\/em>;\u00a0\u00abAu printemps\u00bb<\/em>. A Belcourt, on a vu des mariages se conclure ainsi et des vies enti\u00e8res s’engager sur un \u00e9change de bonbons \u00e0 la menthe. Les odeurs \u00e9taient multiples. C’\u00e9taient celles des \u00e9curies du quartier, des lessives sur les mains de ma m\u00e8re, des jasmins et des ch\u00e8vrefeuilles.<\/p>\n

Trombes et chaleur<\/h3>\n

Aujourd\u2019hui comme hier, la chaleur est terrible, souvent elle rend fou presque tout le monde, et les arcades ne sont pas d\u2019un grand secours pour qui cherche de l\u2019ombre. Alger est un nid de lumi\u00e8res, qui s\u2019assombrissent parfois pour laisser place \u00e0 des orages brefs, et intenses. Je m\u2019en souviens: l\u2019eau, venue des cataractes du ciel, lavait alors brutalement les arbres, les toits, les murs et les rues de la poussi\u00e8re de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9. Boueuse, elle emplissait rapidement les ruisseaux, gargouillait f\u00e9rocement aux bouches d\u2019\u00e9gout, crevait chaque ann\u00e9e les \u00e9gouts eux-m\u00eames.<\/p>\n

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Le premier soleil qui r\u00e9apparaissait faisait alors fumer les maisons et les rues, la ville enti\u00e8re. La chaleur pouvait revenir, mais elle ne r\u00e9gnait plus, le ciel \u00e9tait plus ouvert, la respiration plus large, et, derri\u00e8re l\u2019\u00e9paisseur des soleils, une palpitation d\u2019air, une promesse d\u2019eau annon\u00e7aient l\u2019automne et la rentr\u00e9e des classes. Mon \u00e9cole primaire se trouvait rue Aum\u00e9rat, \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 des halles. Regardons la ville depuis le port : il est domin\u00e9 par le jeu des cubes blancs de la Kasbah. Quand on est au niveau de l\u2019eau, le fond blanc cru de la ville arabe se d\u00e9tache du ciel bleu. C\u2019est dans le port que l\u2019on se baigne, avant d\u2019aller se reposer sur des bou\u00e9es.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Sel et mer<\/h3>\n
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A l\u2019ouest, toujours, et \u00e0 une soixantaine de kilom\u00e8tres se trouve Tipasa, le grand libertinage de la nature et de la mer qui m\u2019accapare tout entier. Regardez les coteaux plant\u00e9s de pins et de cypr\u00e8s, et la mer, toujours recommenc\u00e9e, qui roule ses chiens blancs \u00e0 une vingtaine de m\u00e8tres. Je me souviens de ce soleil, de cette mer, de mon c\u0153ur bondissant de joie, de mon corps au go\u00fbt de sel et de l\u2019immense d\u00e9cor o\u00f9 la tendresse et la gloire se rencontrent dans le jaune et le bleu. Tipasa m\u2019appara\u00eet comme ces personnages qu\u2019on d\u00e9crit pour signifier indirectement un point de vue sur le monde. Comme eux, elle t\u00e9moigne, et virilement. Elle est aujourd\u2019hui mon personnage et il me semble qu\u2019\u00e0 le caresser et le d\u00e9crire, mon ivresse n\u2019aura plus de fin.<\/p>\n

Il y a un temps pour vivre et un temps pour t\u00e9moigner de vivre. Il y a aussi un temps pour cr\u00e9er, ce qui est moins naturel. Il me suffit de vivre de tout mon corps et de t\u00e9moigner de tout mon c\u0153ur. Vivre Tipasa, t\u00e9moigner et l\u2019\u0153uvre d\u2019art viendra ensuite. Il y a l\u00e0 une libert\u00e9.<\/p>\n

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